New England hogs all the attention when it comes to fall, as if Vermonters and New Hampshirites invented apple picking and hot chocolate. When lovers of Cozy Season can be persuaded to turn their gazes inward to the Midwest, they invariably look north to the woods of Minnesota, Wisconsin or Michigan.
St. Louisans, however, have long known the underdog delight of overlooked outdoor treasures, especially those landscapes that are at their best when bathed in jeweled fall colors. A quick drive from the St. Louis area — or bike or paddle or walk — is all it takes to reach scenery worthy of a thousand Instagram posts.
Leaf-peeping starts to edge into weekend plans in September. The days begin to cool and shorten, chlorophyll breaks down and the dominant greens give way to reds, yellows and oranges. Missouri’s cadre of deciduous trees makes its march toward autumn with a flourish that cuts a diagonal swath across the state, from northwest to southeast. Peak leaf season typically lasts from the second half of October into early November.
If you would like to follow the progression in something closer to real time, look to the Fall Color Reports. Each fall, the Missouri Department of Conservation fires up its tracker, posting the latest leaf intel on eight regions across the state.
The tracker will help you get the timing right. From there, there are many options for seeing the show in person. Leaf-peeping can be accomplished by car — en route to orchards and pumpkin patches — or as a pursuit of its own, and you will find such recommendations how best to do so below. However, the relief of crisp autumn air sans windshield after a St. Louis summer is an experience enhancer worth exploring.
By car
A scenic drive: Great River Road Loop
Anywhere along the Illinois side of the Mississippi River in the area of Alton and Grafton is going to put you in prime leaf land. But the folks at Great Rivers and Routes Tourism Bureau rate this two-hour cruise among the trees and fields as their favorite country day drive in the state.
It begins in downtown Alton and cuts north on Piasa Street/U.S. 67 before wriggling back to Illinois Route 100, which is part of the Great Rivers Road National Scenic Byway. The second half of the loop offers rocky bluffs and Pere Marquette State Park to the left and, to the right, the Illinois River and Bundy Lake. If you were not lured into a lunch stop at one of Grafton’s riverside hangouts, your successful return to Alton is a perfect excuse for coffee, sandwiches or cocktails (or all three) in the city’s leisure-friendly downtown.
A German-inflected town in wine country: Hermann
There’s something about driving to this small town in Missouri wine country in the fall that amps up the autumnal vibes. Maybe it’s the sight of harvest season as you pass hilly farms. Maybe it’s the contrast from leaving behind Interstate 64’s outlet malls to crossing the Missouri River and plunging into lush valleys.
Pick up Missouri Route 94 around Weldon Spring and head southwest, and you’ll be treated to a winding drive that skirts the northern edge of the Ozark Plateau and flirts with the river. Dip south on Route 19 to cross the Missouri again and land in Hermann.
The town is the launch point for many a winery tour, but it’s a destination in its own right. Fall is Hermann’s top season. The community hosts a monthlong Oktoberfest that takes place every weekend in October. The drive home along state Route 100 is another highlight reel of small-town Missouri. By the time you hit Washington, you’ll have a full list of wineries, breweries, downtowns, state conservation areas and bike trails to revisit on future trips.
By boat
A major waterway: Missouri River
Did you like that drive through wine country? Imagine the view from a canoe. Shane Camden, who owns the combination outfitter/boat builder/brewery Paddle Stop New Haven (1100 Miller St., New Haven), says a fall trip offers more than just lovely leaves. It’s also a prime chance to view eagles that have taken up residence along the Missouri River between New Haven and Hermann. You’ll have to be prompt to catch one of the fall excursions, though, because Paddle Stop ends its canoe trips in October, the date determined by the weather. However, the brewery is open in all seasons and sits just off state Route 100 between Hermann and Washington.
Another good option: Big Muddy Adventures offers trips into November on the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, including an overnight Missouri River Fall Colors expedition in October.
A Shannon County paddle: Current River
Summer is the most popular season for the Current River and other Ozarks float trip hotspots, but that’s all the more reason to head out in fall. Outfitters along the Current operate year-round, but the hordes that can choke the river in July and August weekends drop off as temperatures drop. The scenery — world class whenever you go — is at its peak when autumn colors take over. Picture clear, spring-fed waters, rocky bluffs and the last hurrah of Missouri hardwoods before they settle down for winter. Paddle Stop doesn’t guide on the Current, but Camden says the stretch near Jadwin, Missouri, between Cedar Grove Campground and Akers Ferry is his favorite for a float.
By foot or bike
St. Louis-area paths: Great Rivers Greenway
There are 135 miles in this network of paved bike and walking paths — too many to pick one favorite stretch. So Anne Milford, communication coordinator at Great Rivers Greenway, recommended three for scenery you can’t get from your car: First is the stretch from Rock Hollow Trail in Wildwood to Al Foster Memorial Trail, which descends down a wooded hillside followed by stroll along the Meramec River. “There are also these big, soaring bluffs,” Milford says. “It’s so pretty.”
Next is the Mississippi Greenway at Cliff Cave Park in south St. Louis County. The upper parking lot off Cliff Cave Road is a short walk away from an overlook with killer views of the Mississippi River, not to mention a view of the tree canopy from above. Another easy walk or ride leads to a footbridge and the gated mouth of the cave.
Her third pick is a strong contender for the best: Old Chain of Rocks Bridge in north St. Louis. This is also part of the Mississippi Greenway and takes travelers from the new Chain of Rocks Park on the Missouri side across the river to Illinois, offering expansive views of all the foliage along the Mississippi’s banks.
State park hike: River Scene Trail at Castlewood
For a more rugged way to see the Meramec and surrounding forest, head to Castlewood State Park near Ballwin and hike the 3.25-mile loop of the River Scene Trail. There’s a semi-steep climb on a dirt trail to the top of a bluff with multiple spots to stare out over the river. An equally steep descent drops down to river level, ducking under train tracks through a tunnel before transitioning into a pleasant walk along the water under those same trees you saw from atop the cliff — a thorough way to appreciate those gorgeous leaves from all sides.
