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NPR's Next Generation Radio Project is a 5-day digital journalism and audio training project. The hybrid (some people in-person, some remote) program is designed to give competitively selected participants the opportunity to learn how to report and produce their own non-narrated audio piece and multimedia story. Those chosen for the project are paired with a professional journalist who serves as their mentor for the week.

A refugee's passion for cooking brings a taste of Bosnia to St. Louis

Elvira is looking very content as she holds a dish and a ladle, cooking a steaming stew. Customers can be seen behind her smelling the food, and the entire piece is filled with warmth.
Lauren Ibañez
/
NPR Next Generation Radio
Thirty years after fleeing her home country because of the Bosnian war, Elvira Ahmetspahic is sharing a “Taste of Bosnia” with St. Louis.

Bosnian refugee Elvira Ahmetspahic always wanted to be a chef, but life and war got in the way.

After moving to St. Louis, she’s now cooking up a “Taste of Bosnia” for her new home at her Mehlville restaurant.

“Even as a child, I loved cooking. That was just my passion, and I knew I wanted to be a chef,” Ahmetspahic said.

At 17, Ahmetspahic left her home in Bosnia when the Bosnian war started in 1992. She never went back.

“They were saying we have to flee the country, but we were thinking we will be back in a few months. So, at that point, I was still not realizing that we’re not going to be back so soon, or at all,” she said. “At this point, I have never been back.”

Ahmetspahic first fled to Germany as a refugee, where she spent about five years. It was in a refugee camp where she met her future husband, Emil.

Elvira Ahmetspahic, originally from Bosnia and now living in Mehlville, adds butter to pitas with cheese at her restaurant, Taste of Bosnia, on Sunday, Sept. 22, 2024, in Mehlville. Ahmetspahic said the pitas — dough filled with ground beef, cheese, potato or spinach — are the most popular item with customers.
Jacob Wiegand
/
NPR Next Generation Radio
Elvira Ahmetspahic, originally from Bosnia and now living in Mehlville, brushes butter over pitas with cheese at her restaurant, Taste of Bosnia, last week in Mehlville. Ahmetspahic said the pitas — dough filled with ground beef, cheese, potato or spinach — are the most popular item with customers.
The American flag sits next to the flag of Bosnia and Herzegovina on Sunday, Sept. 22, 2024, at Taste of Bosnia. Ahmetspahic left Bosnia in 1992 during the Bosnian War.
Jacob Wiegand
/
NPR Next Generation Radio
The American flag sits next to the flag of Bosnia and Herzegovina last week at Taste of Bosnia in Mehlville. Ahmetspahic left Bosnia in 1992 during the Bosnian war.

After they came to the United States, they decided to make the move to St. Louis after hearing about the significant Bosnian population in the area. Now they live in Mehlville in south St. Louis County.

St. Louis has the United States’ largest Bosnian population with an estimated 50,000 to 70,000 in the metropolitan population, according to a 2022 BBC article.

“Honestly, I love the people of St. Louis. They basically are very heartwarming. They are welcoming. Especially to us, to refugees,” she said.

Ahmetspahic’s family embraced its new home.

“We loved going to zoo, to museum, the botanical garden, Arch, all of those places in St. Louis,” she said.

But she still had her culinary dreams. Before she left Bosnia, she started culinary school, but it was cut short by the war.

“Always, in my mind, I had that at one point, [that] I will have my own restaurant, that I will run the place, that I will be cooking all day long,” she said.

Elvira Ahmetspahic, originally from Bosnia and now living in Mehlville, works in the kitchen at her restaurant on Sunday, Sept. 22, 2024, at Taste of Bosnia in Mehlville.
Jacob Wiegand
/
NPR Next Generation Radio
Elvira Ahmetspahic, originally from Bosnia and now living in Mehlville, works in the kitchen at her restaurant.
Elvira Ahmetspahic, originally from Bosnia and now living in Mehlville, plates a pita with cheese Sunday, Sept. 22, 2024, at Taste of Bosnia in Mehlville.
Jacob Wiegand
/
NPR Next Generation Radio
Elvira Ahmetspahic plates a pita with cheese last week.

Once her children were grown, Elvira started catering and growing her business. Eventually she opened up the physical location, Taste of Bosnia, in June 2021 in Mehlville.

It’s at her restaurant that she’s able to share some of her home country with her St. Louis neighbors.

“My joy comes in the cooking, like when I am in the kitchen, I’m happy. I’m in my own world,” she said.

Taste of Bosnia’s most popular item with customers are pitas stuffed with various fillings including ground beef, cheese, spinach or potato.

“I feel like I’m bringing them piece of Bosnia. … But this way, I introduce them like our homes, what we grew up on so they can basically taste how we were growing up,” she said.

Elvira Ahmetspahic, originally from Bosnia and now living in Mehlville, tastes food being cooked for her restaurant, Taste of Bosnia, on Sunday, Sept. 22, 2024, at Taste of Bosnia in Mehlville. “Even as a child, I loved cooking,” she said. “That was just my passion, and I knew I wanted to be a chef.”
Jacob Wiegand
/
NPR Next Generation Radio
Elvira Ahmetspahic tastes food being cooked for her restaurant, Taste of Bosnia, last week. “Even as a child, I loved cooking,” she said. “That was just my passion, and I knew I wanted to be a chef.”
Emil Ahmetspahic, right, originally of Bosnia and now living in Mehlville, assists Alija Dzekic on Sunday, Sept. 22, 2024, at Taste of Bosnia in Mehlville.
Jacob Wiegand
/
NPR Next Generation Radio
Emil Ahmetspahic, right, originally of Bosnia and now living in Mehlville, assists Alija Dzekic last week at Taste of Bosnia in Mehlville.

Ahmetspahic sees people of many backgrounds coming through her door.

“Mostly, I would say it’s Bosnians, just because they know Bosnian food. But there is a lot of Americans, there’s a lot of Asian people, there’s a lot of Indian people,” she said. “It makes me happy to see everybody coming and trying our food.”

After more than a quarter of a century in St. Louis, home for Elvira is not about a physical place.

“Concept of home really means, it doesn’t matter where it is,” she said, “as long as you have family and your immediate family — your kids, your parents, husband, siblings — close … that is home.”

Jacob Wiegand is a journalist with the 2024 NPR Next Generation Radio project at St. Louis Public Radio.