More often than we realize, calling a dish or restaurant “authentic” can have little to do with the food itself. That insight lies at the heart of culinary journalist and chef Holly Fann’s TEDxStLouis talk, which draws on what she has observed in the foodie world online and in her “disproportionately, inordinately food-obsessed” hometown of St. Louis.
Fann says a combination of things makes St. Louis special for folks motivated by food. “It's chefs who come and invest, and the talent we attract here. It's also this great influx of mixed immigration, and multigenerational families that are continuing with that in their restaurants and family history,” Fann said. “And we're open to trying new things. So it's a mix of multiple things that makes us a unique, really forward-thinking food culture.”
Fann’s TEDxSt. Louis talk includes a creative monologue inspired by diners who use “authentic” to describe anything but the food itself, focusing instead on where an eatery is, whether English is spoken there and how little ethnic fare costs. Fann said the sketch elicited notable response while she was onstage giving the talk and offstage thereafter.
“The reason I gave the talk, and the reason it sort of slipped into having a life of its own, is because it is complicated,” Fann said. “If someone wants to tell me they had this great experience at a place that I think may not be a great representation of a certain type of dish, or a certain type of cuisine, I vacillate between using the word ‘authentic.’”
She added that the problem with using “authentic” to describe small, independent, immigrant-owned restaurants “is not singular to white or Caucasian diners… it's shifting the focus away from where it should be. I think we're all sort of guilty of slipping into those preconceived notions and attitudes.”
To hear more about what got Holly Fann thinking about “authentic” food, how expectations about what she should make showed up in culinary school, and what she appreciates about eaters in St. Louis, listen to St. Louis on the Air on Apple Podcast, Spotify, Google Podcast or Stitcher or by clicking the play button below.
“St. Louis on the Air” brings you the stories of St. Louis and the people who live, work and create in our region. The show is produced by Miya Norfleet, Emily Woodbury, Danny Wicentowski, Elaine Cha and Alex Heuer. Ulaa Kuziez is our production intern. The audio engineer is Aaron Doerr. Send questions and comments about this story to talk@stlpr.org.
